Apricot and chilli chutney
‘Picnics should be simple,’ says chef and cookery writer Rowley Leigh. ‘So the kit should be simple: I have enamelled tin plates that are light to carry, Duralex glasses, proper cutlery (I am not a fan of plastic knives and forks) and plenty of plastic storage boxes with lids, which stack easily and are not heavy. As long as you don’t forget the bread knife and the bottle opener, that’s about all you require. I would rather eat recumbent like a Roman than go round carrying chairs and picnic tables. If it is good enough for Édouard Manet, it is good enough for me. The food should be equally unfussy.
Lots of different things piled on a plate just makes a mess and having too many ingredients or garnishes is an opportunity for accidents and attracting wasps. Logistics aside, the first fruits of summer – whether it is peas or gooseberries, melons or tomatoes – should sing clear and sweet. And they need not be messed about with.’
'I was amazed at the reception this got at a dinner last summer. It is especially good with mature cheddar, but works with cold meats, too, and is a great way to use up unripe apricots. You will need a muslin bag for the spices – find these in some supermarkets or online.
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Ingredients
Serves 6 - 8
Step 1
Stew the onions, garlic and ginger, and the red and green chillies gently in a lidded pan with the olive oil for 15 minutes.
Step 2
Halve and stone the apricots, and add to the pan. Sprinkle over sugar and add spices, with the cloves and star anise in a muslin bag.
Step 3
Cook for 20 minutes until the sugar starts to stick, before adding the cider vinegar and drained currants. Add 2-3tbsp water and 1 heaped tsp salt, cover with lid and cook very gently for 1½ hours, checking occasionally that the mixture is not sticking.
Step 4
Remove from heat, remove and discard the spices, and leave to cool completely before pouring into six 200ml sterilised jars. This chutney can be eaten straight away, but is best enjoyed after a few days and will keep for a while in the fridge.
