Gooseberry fool
‘Picnics should be simple,’ says chef and cookery writer Rowley Leigh. ‘So the kit should be simple: I have enamelled tin plates that are light to carry, Duralex glasses, proper cutlery (I am not a fan of plastic knives and forks) and plenty of plastic storage boxes with lids, which stack easily and are not heavy. As long as you don’t forget the bread knife and the bottle opener, that’s about all you require. I would rather eat recumbent like a Roman than go round carrying chairs and picnic tables. If it is good enough for Édouard Manet, it is good enough for me. The food should be equally unfussy.
Lots of different things piled on a plate just makes a mess and having too many ingredients or garnishes is an opportunity for accidents and attracting wasps. Logistics aside, the first fruits of summer – whether it is peas or gooseberries, melons or tomatoes – should sing clear and sweet. And they need not be messed about with.’
'This is the quintessential taste of English summer. I like mine quite tart, but you can add sugar to suit your own taste. The rice is there to give the purée a bit of body, so the fool is not too runny. This is best made the day before.
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Ingredients
Serves 6 - 8
To Serve
Methods
Step 1
Rinse the gooseberries – you do not need to top and tail them – and put in a lidded pan with the ground rice, sugar and cordial. Add 3tbsp water, cover and place on a low heat. Once they start to release their juice, pick out a few nice ones to decorate the fool before turning up the heat and allowing to simmer for 20 minutes.
Step 2
Remove the gooseberries from the heat and whizz briefly in a blender, then push the pulp through a sieve to remove the seeds, skins and stalks. Set the gooseberries aside to cool completely.
Step 3
Whisk the cream to form firm peaks. Take care not to overbeat – stop as soon as it is thick, before it clogs around the whisk and starts to turn to butter. Pour in the cooled gooseberry mixture and fold together very thoroughly. Chill in the fridge until really cold.
Step 4
Serve with sponge fingers or shortcake biscuits, with two or three reserved gooseberries, tails removed, on top of each serving.
