Lamb polpettine with mint salsa verde
‘Picnics should be simple,’ says chef and cookery writer Rowley Leigh. ‘So the kit should be simple: I have enamelled tin plates that are light to carry, Duralex glasses, proper cutlery (I am not a fan of plastic knives and forks) and plenty of plastic storage boxes with lids, which stack easily and are not heavy. As long as you don’t forget the bread knife and the bottle opener, that’s about all you require. I would rather eat recumbent like a Roman than go round carrying chairs and picnic tables. If it is good enough for Édouard Manet, it is good enough for me. The food should be equally unfussy.
Lots of different things piled on a plate just makes a mess and having too many ingredients or garnishes is an opportunity for accidents and attracting wasps. Logistics aside, the first fruits of summer – whether it is peas or gooseberries, melons or tomatoes – should sing clear and sweet. And they need not be messed about with.’
Best made using tender young lamb, these will vanish quite rapidly – especially with a good dip beside them. While they are delicious straight from the frying pan, they are just as good cold. I make mine using the mincer attachment on my food mixer.
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Ingredients
Serves 6 - 8
For the polpettine
For the salsa verde
Methods
Step 1
Unless you have a meat grinder, ask your butcher to grind the lamb on a fine mesh. If neither is possible, cut into small cubes and whizz in a food processor on the pulse button. It is essential to have a finely chopped texture, not a paste. Place the meat in a bowl and mix very thoroughly with the breadcrumbs and pecorino, before beating in the eggs, and plenty of salt and pepper. Spread the mixture on a board and mark into 30 equal-sized squares.
Step 2
With floured hands, take each square and roll into meatballs. Once formed and ready to cook, roll in the remaining flour. Fry in two or three batches in a mix of oil and butter, turning regularly, until well browned and cooked through. Place on a tray to cool.
Step 3
For the salsa verde, pound the garlic with 1tsp coarse salt to a fine paste using a pestle and mortar. Add the anchovies and capers, and continue to pound to a fine paste. Add the parsley, mint and lemon juice. Finally, whisk in olive oil. For a finer texture, pulse briefly in a blender. Serve with the meatballs and a mixed salad if desired.
